Albatross, Sea Lions, and Penguins: Oh My!

5:40 pm July 2^nd 2011

The sun has set over Dunedin and as we drive deeper into Otago County the gloaming shrouds miles of farmland. Hundreds of sheep are still discernable in the faint light that remains.

I am on my way to the New Zealand Marine Science Society’s annual conference and chose to take the weekend before the meeting to see a small chunk of the far south. The 3ish day conference is being held on Stewart Island, sometimes referred to as New Zealand’s “third island,” but in reality a small blob off the southern tip of the South Island.

My first stop was Dunedin, home of Otago University. Immediately after checking in to the backpackers (aka hostel) I headed to the weekly farmers market—a brilliant decision. On top of the delicious apricot loaf and bean soup that I purchased, I was gifted a small chunk of brie cheese and some apples! Some of the Kiwi vendors, being so incredibly kind, seemed to get carried away chatting with me and decided I was a good enough person to merit some free produce. I did not argue!

Having stocked up, I headed to my pick up location for a wildlife tour on the Otago Peninsula. This was also a really good decision. The folks at ELM Tours did a fantastic job of showing us the peninsula’s abundant bird and marine life. The first stop was the Royal Albatross Colony where we viewed Royal Albatross chicks (don’t let the word “chick” throw you off—they are quite large) and were lucky enough to get a fly-by from a magnificent adult bird. These creatures have a three-meter wingspan and measure a bit over a meter from beak to tail. So, the fly-by past our observation hut was really special.

While the albatross colony was cool, I have to say that phase two of the tour was the best. We headed to a DoC conservation area that has a fur seal colony—very cute—and a penguin colony.

Fur Seal:

Additionally, Hooker Sea Lions (aka New Zealand sea lions), which are only found in NZ, like to hang out on that beach. We walked within feet of these feisty and amazing animals. Let me tell you, they are a bit scary and they aren’t afraid of us. In the states, I would have definitely had to sign a liability waver, but it being New Zealand, no one seemed to care that these animals could have mauled us because we wouldn’t have the legal right to sue the tour company anyway.

Nap Time:

Sea Lion Love:

We hit the beach at just the right time to see the penguins come home from a day of fishing and we even got some good Nat Geo-esque action as the returning penguins tried to avoid some lazing sea lions on the beach (video to follow on facebook)! The footage of these goofy birds waddling up the beach and then fleeing back to the ocean at the twitch of a sea lion flipper is definitely worthy of a you-tube voice over. They headed in from sea, crossed the beach, found their mates, and climbed up and over the hill. By far the penguins were my favorite.

Penguin Heading Home:

Having fully enjoyed the peninsula, I spent today in town exploring shops and the museum . Now it’s off to Invercargill for the night and Stewart Island tomorrow!